Here in Belgrade – "The Big Plum" – things look notably
perkier than they did a year ago. Construction cranes are busy.
The nouveau riche are gentrifying streets here and there.
The cops have cleaner cars and more relaxed expressions.
And the tagging wars among the street gangs have really
calmed down. This crossing-out business under the host
of tasty canned goods here... that public rivalry has gotten
rarer.
