Surfing might seem like it’s a sport for cool, fun people, but we nerds know that it’s actually an engineering problem: How do you get yourself and a board that’s bigger than you are on the shoulder of the wave? Once there, how do you get your board moving fast enough to catch that wave?
It’s generally acknowledged that it’s easier to catch small, mushy waves on a bigger board. This leads many surfers to make a series of tradeoffs when considering what to paddle out. Wear out your arms paddling out a big board for a fun, easy ride? Or venture out on a shortboard, knowing that you might be stuck out in the lineup and swiveling in endless circles?
I’ve long accepted that, as punishment for the sin of preferring smaller waves, I’m stuck paddling out on what is basically a floating ping pong table. It is not unusual for me to emotionally blackmail my spouse into paddling out my funboard while I paddle out his shortboard, and then switch once we’re in the lineup.


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